At the end of September, we finally went on a little trip we've planned a couple weeks earlier with a group of six friends... Although "we've" is a bit of an overstatement here, since one of us, M.G., set up pretty much everything, along with the accomodation and all the places we were to see. It's so great to have an "organizer" friend like that; Not to say that that's why I like her, because she's a lovely person all around, but I just don't think anyone else out of our group could set up a date that would suit so many people's schedules, and have everything work out like a charm!
Day 0
Getting there took a bit of patience, as we had to take two trains and a bus, starting the journey in the evening, and arriving in Zakopane at 6 am... And we only got two hours of sleep afterwards, since we didn't want the first day of the trip to go to waste; We got to spend three days there (since the fourth one was pretty much spent on getting back home), so every hour was precious to us. But it sure was worth it!
A postcard bought in Zakopane
Zakopane is a town situated at the highest elevation out of any settlement in Poland; It's got a rich history, with a characteristic style of wooden architecture that you won't find anywhere else; But I'll tell you one thing right away – if you're looking for a quaint little village with a gentle stream running through it and not another tourist soul in sight – this sure ain't it. Or at least hasn't been for several decades now. It does however sit at the feet of some of the most beautiful mountains in this part of Europe – the Tatras, shared with Czechia and Slovakia. And that's more than enough to forgive it for all the Aliexpress toys at souvenir shops and expensive dinners.
Krupówki, the main boulevard of Zakopane (source: onet.pl)
Day 1
So after we left the bags and took a nap in our guesthouse in the town, we immediately set out to conquer new heights and all that yada yada. First up was Nosal, an "easy" (not for us, lol) 1206 m / 3956 ft summit at the very edge of a notorious ridge crowned by Kasprowy Wierch.

The view was beautiful, the weather was really nice up to that point and we still had lots of time. Having reached the top of Nosal and taken several group photos in all kinds of combinations, we descended and went through Krupówki to climb Gubałówka, probably the most "developed" mountain in Poland, with bars, restaurants and souvenir shops atop it. There are two ways to reach the summit: by a funicular or by a foot trail. Since the cable car option was not very cheap, and since after all we came to the Tatras to hike, we chose the latter. I gotta say though – even in good weather, the trail was really uncomfortable to climb – it only goes up in a straight, thin line; really thin, because the terrain directly next to the trail was claimed by a landowner and fenced off! Many of the rocks/planks/plates you were supposed to walk on were broken or eroded, which became more of a peeve when it started raining as we were midway up, and a torrent of mud ran down, right through the center of the trail.

View from midway through the Gubałówka trail onto Giewont in the distance
My favorite thing about that route was the beautiful view onto snowy Giewont, a mountain known as the Sleeping Knight due to its similarity to the silhouette of a man laying down on his back, and a related mountaineers' legend of a knight who got turned into stone. Once we got to the top of Gubałówka we went into a cafe with a view down on Zakopane, but by then our line of sight onto the town got blocked out by some temporarily amassing fog. Still, it felt very nice to have sat down there, at an open air table, after the "struggle" (for our untrained asses a struggle indeed) we went through. I ordered some apple pie and coffee and we shared lots of laughs about lots of dumb things, until it was time to get back down to our guesthouse, before it would start to get dark. Once we got there, we spent the evening watching a football game between Poland and the Netherlands... well... at least we had another good laugh at that one.
Day 2

We got up at half past 6, and a little over an hour later we were already going uptrail, firmly set on conquering Kasprowy Wierch (1,987 m / 6,519 ft) that day. The trail started easy, with the weather a pleasant balance between cool and calm. As we climbed the soft incline, we were soon surrounded by a dense pine wood clutching to the mountainside. The groundcover around us was blooming with all sorts of mushrooms, edible and not: slippery jacks (Suillus), Boletes, fly agarics (Amanita); Mushroom picking being one of the average Pole's favourite pastimes, it was tough to resist gently twisting one of the shrooms from the mossy soil... We were in a national park though, and so it was forbidden to interfere with nature – hence why the mushrooms were still even there for me to see so near to the route.
We were taking the scenic route to Kasprowy, so to say. It was one that was to lead us up a minor ridge and back down to a valley and a glacial lake (yellow trail), then up another ridge (black trail) onto our destined summit. Up to that point the only snow we'd seen that week was miles away on top of Giewont and Świnica. As we reached a higher altitude though, and the woods gave way to a rarely spread bog pine cover, we gradually started to see more and more frost on the grass and rocks. At the same time, a milky mist began to envelope us.

Climbing on, we reached a height at which patches of snow started showing up on the ground and shrubs. Soon enough, it was going to become apparent that we would've done well to prepare more thoroughly for this trip... But for now, we reached the top of the ridge and took a couple photos there, most of them either of us or of the fog wrapping around rocks and trees. After a small descent, we arrived at Hala Gąsienicowa. A large mountain meadow, it once used to be a wild plain covered entirely in bog pines, only for those to be cut out at some point by the highlanders, so that the terrain could be used for the cultivation of sheep. That period gave rise to the charming wooden huts peppered through the part of the valley known as Rówienki. Those buildings used to serve as temporary housing for the bacas (heads of a local sheep grazing economy) or juhases (their younger apprentices), when they led the sheep out into the mountain meadows for grazing. Now that the valley hasn't been used anymore for grazing in many years, it's once again filling up with bog pines.
Rówienki, a part of Hala Gąsienicowa; My friends in the foreground
Through Rówienki we arrived in the mountain shelter of Murowaniec, our first stop, where we had a hot meal and some mulled wine to wash it down with. The hot, strong wine made me feel butterflies in my stomach, except those butterflies were ablaze with raging flames... in a pleasant way, though.
Murowaniec, a mountain shelter in Hala Gąsienicowa (source: portaltatrzanski.pl)
The impressive building and the routes connecting it to lower plains were constructed by four platoons of the Polish army in the 1920s. I can only imagine the titanic struggle that went into transporting the building materials to a place like this!
From Murowaniec, we continued our ascent by a fairly easy trail. The layer of snow and ice on some of the rocks underneath our feet was however beginning to thicken, and every now and then you could feel your step slip on an unexpected frozen patch. Next, we arrived at Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy (roughly "Black Gąsienica Pond"), a beautiful tarn (Wikipedia told me that that's what you call a lake formed with glacial water inside a cirque) surrounded by steep mountain walls.
On our way to the lake, we passed multiple tourists. It's a custom for people on trails to always say "Hi" or "Good day" to each other when passing by, which felt really nice. Apparently the reason for this is not just a usual greeting, too – originally, getting a greeting back from someone on the trail is supposed to be a sign that they are well enough to go on, while the contrary calls for checking on their wellbeing.
Up one of those steep walls around Czarny Staw, at the right hand side when coming from Murowaniec, led the black trail to Karb. Karb is a mountain pass between the Little Kościelec and Kościelec peaks, and on its other side is the final approach onto Kasprowy Wierch. In a spur of the moment decision, we decided to take that trail, shorter but steeper than the blue one. Looking at it from the bottom, we could already see that there barely was anyone to say "Hi" to up there, which perhaps we should have taken for a hint.
At this elevation, the layer of snow was already very thick. In some places it was compressed into hard, slippery ice, in others a misstep could reveal a deep hole underneath. All this on the steepest incline we've been on yet, full of gaps between the rocks, which would normally be easily visible but were now obscured by the snow. AND we didn't have crampons (spikes you put on your boots for ice climbing), which every single one of the few people who passed us now had, aaand we were totally unexperienced...
It may feel silly now, but my heart was beating like crazy when I took this photo because I was convinced I might die any moment
Slipping and tripping repeatedly were really exhausting, and at the same time we were constantly anxious about either falling off, or having the thick mass of untouched snow on the mountainside above us come down in an avalanche. One of our friends apparently had a fear of heights too (wish I was aware of this beforehand :|), which must've made this experience an absolute nightmare for him. At one point, a couple little snowballs rolled from above. As they came down, they accreted more and more of the sticky snow which covered the side of the peak. Lucky for us, they went directly behind us and continued on to the foot of the mountain uninterrupted. At the moment they came close to our group, they were big enough that had they hit someone, they'd have – at the very least – knocked them out of balance.
Eventually, after a little more than half an hour, we got to the top of Karb, all pumped up on adrenaline and relieved that the road was gonna be smooth sailing from here. Relatively speaking. Three of us, including K.D., the friend with a fear of heights, decided to return to our guesthouse in Zakopane without reaching Kasprowy Wierch. Can't blame them – my mind was almost set on going back with them, but in the end my stubborn side won over. However, getting down the other side of Karb, where we were to split, was no easy task either. Everything was so slippery that I don't think I've made more than 3 steps in a row at any point without slipping or falling onto my butt.

left: The valley between the Karb and the trail up Kasprowy Wierch; right: A crossroads waypost in the valley
After making our way down to the valley, we found ourselves surrounded by lots of small lakes and ponds, most of them filled with crystal clear water, but some small enough to be entirely frozen. Here, at a crossroads, we split into two groups: the three marauders taking the walk of shame back to the guesthouse through the Gąsienica Valley, and the four summit pushers about to eat a hot meal in the shelter atop Kasprowy Wierch.
The way up Kasprowy Wierch was yet steeper, but much safer than the wall of Karb. The only danger here was, again, constantly slipping on the steep ice. It quickly became apparent that my stamina at this point was the worst of our bunch. I felt guilty as my friends got further and further away from me, and even made two stops so I could catch up to them. I knew that time was valuable here, because we wanted to be back home before it gets dark. Perhaps I should have gone through Gąsienica Valley instead of slowing them down? But at least, during one of those stretches where I lagged far behind M.G., K.M. and W.K., I met a cool guy from Silesia. It was really nice talking to him for a while as we climbed together at a snail's pace.


Views from atop Kasprowy Wierch; the smaller building on the left (at the very summit of the mountain) is an observatory, and the larger building further down is the mountain shelter and terminal station of the cable car to Kasprowy Wierch
When we entered the shelter, we could literally wring sweat from our clothes, our cheeks red with a cartoony flush. I stripped down to my t-shirt and ordered dinner consisting of some blood sausage, fries and beets. It wasn't cheap, but at that moment I could very well sell a kidney for a hot meal. And boy, was it delicious... Be it for the actual quality of the food or just on account of how hungry we were. The road back down the mountain to Kuźnice, and from there to our guesthouse in Zakopane, took us around 3 hours. The conditions were more or less the same as during the ascent, though there were places where the trail was just as steep and narrow as on the Karb, except this time it was going down... Same direction that gravity pulls you in, coincidentally; This made it practically impossible to take a step without crampons on, so of course, we slid down most of the icy part of the road on our sore asses... But I'd say the views on the second, snowless part of the way back were even more breathtaking than the way to Kasprowy! Especially since the weather improved.


Views from the green trail from Kasprowy Wierch to Kuźnice
Day 3
On the 3rd day of Tatermas the active team of summit pushers had shrank yet again, on account of yours truly. The plan for the day was to reach the Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich (Valley of the Five Polish Lakes) through a beautiful route near the Siklawa waterfall. I knew it would be the highlight of the trip but my body just gave up on me that morning :/ Not only was my entire lower body sore as hell, but I also desperately needed more than 4 hours of sleep. So, I stayed in with M.R., K.D. and M.K. in our guesthouse.
Yeahhh, the owner made sure we clung for our dear life during every nightly excursion to the basement fridge...
Therefore, I don't have much of a hiking story from the final day of the trip... But here are some snaps taken by M.G. that showcase what we'd missed out on:

left: Siklawa waterfall; right: Wielki Staw Polski, the largest tarn in Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich
However, that doesn't mean that us Four Horsemen let that day go to waste altogether. What would a trip to Zakopane be without a souvenir hunt on the Krupówki...? And what better souvenir than 2 kilos of smoked sheep cheese???
I kid you not, this traditional type of highlander cheese is called an oscypek, and no true Pole can go to the mountains and NOT bring back a couple of these for their family. Absolutely heavenly when grilled (melts beautifully on the inside, stays hard on the outside) and a wonderfully aromatic hard cheese if eaten cold as well. Interestingly, the name "oscypek" is protected by law as a traditional product, so it's illegal to call your cheese an oscypek if it doesn't follow the regulations based on ancient local tradition.
I got three of those for my grandma, parents and uncle (who's also brought one for us when he went to Zakopane the previous month), plus some more personal gifts for grandma, mom and dad. With wallets nigh turned inside out, we arrived at an inconspicous place we'd decided to check out earlier. The green sign above a narrow doorway, wedged between two buildings, read: Myszogród (Mousegard). From the outside it definitely looked underwhelming, but entering the door reveals a downward stairwell, which leads to a massive basement... a basement which is home to 3000 mice!
They're locked in though, so don't worry. And not in just some cage; these mice probably live better than I'll ever be able to...

Inside massive, picturesque dioramas built by artists, spread across multiple rooms, you can see various species of mice here, just chillin' and mousin' around in their favourite cozy places. The employee who sold us our tickets wes eager to answer any of our questions regarding the mice, and clearly had an impressive amount not only of trivia and knowledge, but also personal attachment to the little rascals. She even told us a story about one mama degu mouse who had such a strong parental instinct that she seemed genuinely depressed when she had to be temporarily separated from her children for relocation. We were all really impressed with this place, and I'd definitely recommend it to anyone visiting with kids, thanks to the various awesome facts about rodents they can learn here to impress their playground friends back home.
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I'll spare you the details of our packing and way back home after this massively overstretched post... But bear with me yet through this wrap-up: Although our trip was really short, as my first time hiking in the mountains, I would have never traded these wonderful couple of days for anything in the world. The incredible sights, demanding trails, and last but not the least beautiful, amazing people I'm lucky to call my friends: they all made this experience something I'll carry dear in my heart forever :)
-wilton
[photos taken with my phone unless source otherwise specified]